I love a good thrifting find, and transforming second‑hand curtains into thermal‑lined Roman blinds is one of my favourite ways to make a chilly rented room feel cosier without permanent alterations. I made my first pair from heavy vintage curtains I found at a car boot sale, and since then I’ve used everything from linen panels to embroidered drapes. Below I’ll walk you through the why, what and how — practical steps, materials that work well, and renter‑friendly hanging options so you can enjoy warmth and style without risking your deposit.

Why turn thrifted curtains into lined Roman blinds?

There are three big reasons I choose this route:

  • Cost: Thrifted curtains are often cheaper than ready‑made lined blinds, and you can customise the size and style.
  • Sustainability: Reusing existing textiles keeps fabric out of landfill and reduces demand for new production.
  • Performance: Adding a thermal lining (Thinsulate, blackout fleece or wool blend) noticeably reduces draughts, improves comfort and can lower heating bills.

    • Plus, Roman blinds give a neat, tailored look that suits both period and modern rentals, and they fold up cleanly so you won’t obscure too much light when you want it.

    What materials you’ll need

    You can adapt this project to what you find, but here’s a reliable kit list I use. I’ve included alternatives depending on budget and availability.

    Thrifted curtain(s) Choose a panel wider than your window. Heavier fabrics work best for structure.
    Thermal lining fabric Options: Thinsulate thermal lining (best performance), blackout lining, fleece or wool blend. Thinsulate is thin but warm and easy to sew; blackout fleece is thicker and blocks light.
    Interfacing or curtain lining tape Lightweight interfacing for stability and curtain header/tape for attaching batons if needed.
    Wooden dowels or battens To create the horizontal folds; dowels around 6–12 mm work well.
    Roman blind rings or small curtain rings Used to guide cords; you’ll need one vertical row of rings across the back (typically 4–6 rings depending on blind height).
    Blind tape (optional) Pre‑made Roman blind tape saves time and provides pockets for dowels.
    Cord and cleat Thin polyester cord and a cleat or tieback to secure the cord. Use child‑safe cleats if necessary.
    Velcro For removable top attachment if you can’t screw a pelmet.
    Command hooks / tension rod / inside‑mount curtain wire Renter‑friendly hanging methods — see hanging section below.
    Sewing supplies Thread, pins, measuring tape, scissors, sewing machine (hand‑sewable for small panels).

    How to measure for a good fit

    Accurate measurements are the foundation of a neat blind. Here’s my usual method:

  • Measure the window width at three points (top, middle, bottom). Use the smallest width to avoid scraping the sides.
  • Decide inside or outside mount. Inside mount gives a cleaner look; outside mount adds coverage and warmth.
  • For inside mount: subtract 1–2 cm from the smallest width so the blind fits inside the frame.
  • For outside mount: add 5–10 cm each side to reduce light gaps and improve thermal performance.
  • Measure the drop (height) from the top of your chosen fixing point to the sill or desired lower edge. Add 5–10 cm if you want the blind to sit below the sill for extra coverage.

    • Cutting and preparing your thrifted fabric

    I always launder and press second‑hand curtains first to see how they drape and whether the fabric has shrunk. Once prepped:

  • Lay the curtain flat and mark the panel to your measured width and drop, allowing 2–3 cm seam allowance on all sides.
  • If your curtain has a decorative header, decide whether to keep it visible at the top (nice if you want a patterned header) or hide it behind the blind’s top bar.
  • Trim and hem the sides if required, then sew a neat facing at the bottom to enclose the lowest dowel pocket — this adds weight and helps the blind hang straight.

    • Adding the thermal lining

    Layering the lining behind the curtain is key. I usually baste the lining to the main fabric before finishing seams so it behaves as one. Steps:

  • Cut the lining to the same finished size as your outer fabric.
  • Baste the lining to the wrong side of your curtain panel along the edges and a couple of vertical lines to keep it from shifting.
  • If using Thinsulate, you can sew it directly; it’s thin and machine‑friendly. For thicker blackout fleece, use a heavier needle and longer stitch length.
  • Finish the side seams and hem, ensuring the lining is completely enclosed.

    • Making the Roman system

    There are two main approaches: using pre‑made Roman blind tape or making pockets for dowels yourself.

  • With blind tape: sew the tape across the back at evenly spaced intervals (I use 4–6 rows depending on height). Insert dowels into the tape pockets.
  • Without tape: measure and sew horizontal pockets (about dowel thickness + 0.5 cm seam allowance) across the back at each fold point. Reinforce ends with bar tacks.
  • Attach rings vertically from the top to each pocket line: one row of rings centered, or three vertical strands (left, centre, right) for wider blinds. Secure rings between lining and main fabric so they’re unseen from the front.

    • Hanging without drilling (renter‑friendly)

    I test hanging options to avoid holes:

  • Command Large Picture Hooks or Heavy Duty strips: good for pelmet boards or a top batten. Check weight limits and use multiple hooks along the top for support.
  • Tension rod inside the window recess: works for shallow blinds and avoids any fixings. You’ll need to sew a rod pocket across the top of the blind.
  • Clip rings on an existing curtain pole: if you have a pole, attach blind with curtain rings; use Velcro across the top to keep it flush.
  • Fabric curtain wire (e.g., from John Lewis or IKEA) fixed with adhesive hooks is a neat, minimally invasive option.

    • Practical tips I’ve learned

  • Use a lightweight lining for single windows and Thinsulate where heat retention matters most (north‑facing rooms, single‑glazed windows).
  • If the blind is wide, add a central support cord to prevent sagging.
  • Test your cord system before finishing: raise and lower the blind several times to make sure folds form neatly and the cord doesn’t snag.
  • Label the strings and take photos of the back of the blind before trimming excess cord — it helps if you need to adjust later.
  • For a softer look, use wooden dowels painted to match or wrapped in fabric; for a crisp fold, choose thin metal or rigid dowels.

    • Frequently asked questions

    Will lining really make a difference? Yes — a proper thermal lining reduces draughts and the feeling of cold coming through windows. It won’t be as effective as sealed double glazing, but it’s a noticeable improvement.

    Can I use lightweight curtain fabric? You can, but add a heavier lining and consider interfacing for structure so the blind folds neatly.

    How do I keep it removable? Use Velcro or adhesive hooks at the top, or a tension rod. Avoid permanent screws; if you must use them, make sure landlord permission is given.

    Is sewing necessary? Not strictly. You can make a no‑sew version using fusible tape and pre‑made blind tape, but sewing gives a neater, more durable finish.

    If you try this project, I’d love to see your before‑and‑after photos — sharing thrifted finds and creative solutions is what makes this kind of DIY so joyful. Little upgrades like these can make a rented room feel cared for and cosy while keeping things responsible and reversible.